Located around 25 kilometers from central Hanoi, Chàng Sơn still retains distinctly northern traits like an ancient village entrance, banyan trees, and raucous street markets. Tiny lanes run along walls of worn-down bricks in between the shadows of tall heritage trees. The gentle lilac flowers of bằng lăng trees stand out amongst the many shades of green.

Village elders told me that the art of fan-making has been around for around 200 years. Generations of Chàng Sơn kids have grown up amid the hues of red, blue, and yellow of paper fans. In the village today, dry bamboo segments and piles of fans are still present in every meandering lane and along walls. The whimsical scenes revealing nearly every household, every resident participating in the craft is proof that this time-honored tradition is still very much alive even in contemporary Vietnam.

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